My first impression of American Samoa was in the wee hours of the morning. When we came into the harbor the first thing I noticed was the cloudy harbor waters and then the stench of the tuna canneries. Then I noticed bags, cups, and bottles floating in the water. All I could think was, “gross, this place is awful!” This impression did not improve after we finally got the boat tied up and the bright lights of the McDonalds lit up the sky. It wasn’t until the next morning walking around the town of Fagatogo that my first impressions were proved wrong. The shock of a real American McDonalds after so long in French Polynesia wore off within the first bite of my double quarter pounder with cheese. Walking around town and checking out the local hangouts and restaurants I found myself immersed in one of the friendliest cultures I have been in.
American Samoa seems to have a little bit of the best of everything all rolled into one. Sure I miss the delicious baguette bread of French Polynesia but it has been great to be back among English speakers after what feels like so long. Will and I successfully located the cheapest ice cream cones yet here at just 50 cents for a scoop of chocolate ice cream. Stores here are cheap and have everything (and sometimes more) that you would expect to find in an American hardware of grocery store especially snack foods. I was surprised after one trip to a small store when Will walked out with a bag of “Cuttlefish Chips” and yes, they taste just like cuttlefish…I think. Busses here run everywhere just like in Panama for a dollar a ride and they even blast loud music. The internet here is still not free but it is a fraction of the cost of French Polynesia and is unlimited which makes emailing and web browsing much less stressful. The post office here is USPS and postage to the mainland is as cheap as if I was right back in North Carolina. American Samoa is also wonderfully lacking in tourists which gives it a small town feel which I have really enjoyed.
American Samoa isn’t without its own bad luck though. Minimum wage is on the rise to match that of the U.S soon and unemployment is becoming a bigger and bigger problem as the tuna canning factories that used to employ hundreds are leaving Pago Pago. Tutuila was also hit by a major Tsunami in late September of 2009 and the damage is still very evident in some boarded up buildings and even some boats that are still high and dry. Waterfront businesses in Pago Pago harbor were hit hard and some have yet to recover.
My favorite thing about American Samoan culture is the great emphasis on family and community. This trickles down into everyday interaction between Samoans as well. Everyone I have met has been respectful, ready and willing to help, and friendly on the street often stopping to talk to us. Samoa is definitely on my return-to list and I will do my best to take a little bit of Samoan culture with me. I think we could all take a lesson in family values from the Samoans.
-Alan
